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Expédition canoë: pris dans une tempête de neige

par | 2020/01/07 | Aventure | 674 commentaires

Expédition canoë: pris dans une tempête de neige

Une expédition canoë en hiver

Je viens d’acheter un canoë d’occasion et l’idée d’une expédition canoë me titille depuis un certain temps. Quelques semaines plus tôt, j’ai le plaisir de rencontrer Hugo (@monsieur_aventure), un bloggeur aventurier, en road trip dans l’Ouest américain. Nous sympathisons autour d’un verre et convenons d’une expédition canoë juste avant Noël. Je le répète souvent, sceller une date est le point le plus important de toute aventure. Ce bivouac va être le moment idéal de partir en canoë.

En route pour l’aventure

Trois jours avant Noël, je retrouve Hugo et Jérome, un fidèle partenaire de microaventure. Puis, nous quittons Sacramento sous la pluie pour nous évader dans la Sierra Nevada, plus précisément à Loon Lake. La neige arrive rapidement et avec les basses températures, elle tient déjà sur la route. Quinze minutes plus tard, nous mettons les chaînes car la progression devient trop difficile. La destination finale se trouve encore à 20km. Notre vitesse est réduite et nous arrivons à Loon Lake qu’en début d’après-midi.

À notre grande surprise, le lac n’est pas gelé. Nous tentons de nous rapprocher du lac en prenant une route non dégagée. La voiture se comporte bien mais face à nous deux pick-ups font marche arrière. Je sors des traces pour les laisser passer et, grave erreur, la voiture s’enlise dans la neige. Après des tentatives de déneigement infructueuses, nous attachons notre voiture à un gros 4×4 venu en aide. Mais, nous perdons tout de même une bonne heure et il neige de plus en plus. Nous évaluons la situation : conditions météo, distances à parcourir et timing et nous décidons de maintenir l’expédition canoë sur Loon Lake. De plus, nous irons construire un igloo sur l’île la plus proche. Si nous devons lever le camp à n’importe quelle heure du jour ou de la nuit, cela sera bien plus facile à gérer.

Il faut se dépêcher car la nuit arrive rapidement. Tant qu’il fait jour, il sera bien plus facile d’établir le camp.

La mise à l’eau du canoë

Nous avons beaucoup de matériel, environ 80 kg plus le canoë. Les berges du lac se trouvent à plusieurs centaines de mètres de distance et à environ cinquante mètres en contre-bas. L’accès est compliqué et nous n’envisageons pas de faire de multiples aller-retours dans la neige fraîche. Nous analysons la topographie et trouvons une pente faible qui mène jusqu’au lac. C’est décidé, nous chargeons le canoë juste à côté de la voiture et nous nous en servons comme luge de transport. Nous répartissons nos vêtements de rechange dans des sacs étanches dans l’éventualité d’un chavirage dans de l’eau glacée. Avec ces conditions météo et des vêtements mouillés, nous serions en état d’hypothermie bien trop rapidement.

En 15 minutes, nous chargeons le canoë et nous le poussons sur la route enneigée, puis dans la pente qui mène au lac. Le canoë glisse sur la neige presque tout seul et l’effort est limité. C’est un vrai bonheur ! C’est une stratégie payante et l’excitation monte d’un cran. Nous ne nous précipitons pas et mettons calmement le canoë à l’eau. il ne manquerait plus qu’un faux pas et que l’un d’entre nous fasse un plongeon regrettable. Moment de grâce lorsque l’on voit le canoë flotter de façon équilibrée malgré la charge. Nous embarquons chacun notre tour en commençant par la poupe. Enfin à bord, les pagaies en mains, nous glissons sur le lac silencieux et sous les flocons de neige en direction de notre île. Le moment est magique. Les sapins se découvrent derrière un rideau de flocons. Pas un bruit, seul le coulis de l’eau contre le canoë.

La construction du camp

La construction du camp méritera un article à part entière pour aborder en détail comment construire un igloo ou faire un feu dans la neige. Je vais toutefois vous faire part de notre organisation et des difficultés rencontrées.

Nous mettons le pied à terre et nous savons qu’il nous faudra au moins 2 heures pour établir le camp. Il n’y a pas de temps à perdre. La nuit va tomber dans une heure et le thermomètre va chuter d’un coup. On se répartit les tâches, Jérôme à l’igloo, Hugo au bois et moi-même au coin feu.

L’effort physique que nous fournissons est colossal pour établir le camp aussi rapidement que possible à la vue des conditions météo qui se dégradent. Jérôme déplace des mètres cubes de neige pour faire un énorme tas et ensuite creuser un trou à l’intérieur. Cette technique est très efficace quand il n’y a pas assez de neige pour creuser directement dedans comme dans notre cas. Lorsque je finis le coin feu, je rejoins Jérôme. Je creuse dans le tas et il déblaie la neige. C’est un effort d’endurance comme une course de fond. Nos cœurs battent fort et nous avons chaud mais nous ne pouvons pas nous arrêter. Pendant ce temps-là, Hugo récupère du bois mort et fend les bûches, que nous avons ramenées, à la hache.

2 heures plus tard, la nuit est déjà tombée depuis un certain temps, l’igloo est fini et nous sommes tous en sueur. Le feu est allumé sous la neige battante. Sa lumière rassurante et ses premières chaudes caresses nous font le plus grand bien. On boit le thermos de thé à la menthe sucré qui nous réchauffe de l’intérieur. Mais ce n’est qu’un faux espoir. Jérôme tremble fortement de froid et les pieds de Hugo ne se réchauffent pas. Je commence également à trembler, chose qui ne m’arrive jamais. Le feu ne réchauffe que nos mains. La neige accumulée sur nos vêtements chauffés par le feu se transforme en eau et pénètre nos vêtements jusqu’à la peau, si ce n’est pas la moelle. Les premiers signes d’hypothermie sont là et les conditions sont réunies pour que cela tourne mal. Nous devons réagir de suite.

Se réchauffer, une question de survie

Jérôme prend les devants et va aménager l’igloo. Les couches sont organisées de la façon suivante : couverture de survie, matelas en mousse, matelas gonflable, duvet. C’est une bonne technique de base mais j’ai depuis appris de meilleures techniques qui seront élaborées dans un prochain article.

Nous retirons nos vêtements dans l’entrée de l’igloo pour garder notre petit nid au sec. Si on mouille nos affaires pour le couchage, la nuit sera terrible. Nous sommes étonnés à quel point nos affaires sont gorgées d’eau. Ce sont pourtant des vêtements faits pour la neige. On se change de la tête au pied tant bien que mal dans notre 6 m2. Entre un T-shirt et un caleçon, on engloutit des cacahouètes et on sirote le thé encore brûlant. On se réchauffe instantanément. Jérôme et Hugo se glissent dans leur duvet. Nous sommes à bout de force après l’effort physique intense, le froid glaçant et le stress émotionnel.

Désormais, notre seule crainte est l’effondrement de l’igloo dans la nuit. Nous nous sommes mis d’accord. Si cela arrive, nous abandonnerions le camp instantanément pour trouver refuge dans la voiture, après une navigation nocturne. Les affaires seraient récupérées ultérieurement.

L’alimentation est très simple. En plus des noix et fruits secs, nous avons 3 plats lyophilisés pour 3 personnes chacun. Le temps de faire bouillir l’eau, on fait un bilan de nos actions et de la situation, ce qui est à refaire ou à oublier. On se raconte aussi des histoires d’aventure, d’attaques d’ours ou de l’expédition arctique de Mike Horn. Il vient de passer 57 jours sur la banquise. Nous n’allons passer qu’une seule nuit dans la neige et il serait inconcevable d’en passer une seconde.

On engloutit 6 portions de Mac n’Cheese (pâtes au fromage à l’américaine) puis on enfile chacun notre deuxième duvet. Réchauffés, nous discutons encore un peu et le sommeil finit par se faire sentir. Je plante mon couteau dans le mur de l’igloo à ma portée. La probabilité de s’en servir est proche de zéro mais c’est mon habitude dans la nature sauvage.

L’inconnue du matin

La nuit fût longue mais pas blanche. J’ai l’impression de ne presque pas avoir dormi mais aux commentaires de mes acolytes, ma production de décibels a été généreuse. Rien que d’entendre ça, je me sens déjà plus reposé ! Haha !
Nous sommes restés au sec et aucun d’entre nous n’a eu froid. Les duvets sont quand même bien humides en surface. Je me demande bien comment il est possible de camper plusieurs nuits d’affilée dans la neige.
On regarde en direction de l’entrée. On devine le paysage et le lac dans son intégralité. La visibilité est bonne même si le temps est toujours nuageux ; surtout, il ne neige plus. Nous découvrons nos sacs ensevelis sous 30cm de neige fraîche. La prochaine inconnue reste l’état de la route. Allons-nous pouvoir repartir en voiture ou devrons-nous aller chercher de l’aide à pied ? Bref, il n’y a qu’une seule façon de le savoir, c’est de la rejoindre et le plus rapidement possible.

Nous plions nos duvets et matelas tout en essayant de ne pas plus les mouiller. Qui sait si on devra passer une nuit de plus ? Nos vêtements de la veille ont passé la nuit dehors volontairement. Ils trouvent place dans un sac étanche pour ne pas tremper nos sacs et affaires sèches.
En une heure, le camp est plié et le canoë chargé. Nous quittons notre île, fiers d’avoir affronté les éléments et d’avoir passé une nuit au sec.

Sur la trajet canoë du retour, on sent la fatigue physique et émotionnelle. Il y a moins d’enthousiasme, il y a surtout de la crainte ; celle de découvrir trop de neige sur la route la rendant impraticable. Bref, nous sommes pressés de savoir si l’aventure va se terminer ou si une épreuve nous attend.
Nous mettons le pied à terre et montons d’un pas décidé vers la route. Nos regards se posent sur une route dégagée. Il y a encore moins de neige que la veille. Un chasse neige est passé au petit matin.

Nous poussons des cris de joie, l’aventure est finie et a été un succès.

Le bilan de cette expédition canoë en hiver

Cette microaventure a été parmi les plus dures que j’ai réalisée. L’effort physique et la charge émotionnelle de cette expédition canoë ont été tels que je ne suis pas sûr de vouloir refaire une telle microaventure dans des conditions météo similaires. Le fait qu’il ait neigé a rendu cette aventure extrêmement plus difficile. C’est bien la première fois que je me suis dit que l’aventure pouvait basculer vers la survie. 

Seule une très bonne organisation et une équipe soudée nous a permis d’affronter cette situation. L’organisation de cette expédition canoë fera l’objet d’un article spécifique.

Malgré les difficultés rencontrées, cette microaventure restera un souvenir inoubliable et une expérience extrêmement enrichissante. Quand j’y repense, cela ressemble comme à un rêve, un moment de vie tellement intense et insensé que je doute presque que ce soit arrivé.

Alors, ça vous tente?

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    • Paul
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      Content que ça te plaise. Quand tu viendras, on fera une sortie ensemble.

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  2. Christine PONVIENNE
    Christine PONVIENNE sur 2020-01-09 à 5:31

    Pense à amener ton embarcation dans les Monts mais je pense que les sensations seront moins fortes ici!!!! Bravo pour cette superbe aventure!!! et bonne année 2020 !!!

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    • Paul
      Paul sur 2020-01-11 à 9:06

      Bonne année Christine!
      Les sensations sont tout aussi fortes peu importe le lieu, c’est ça qui est génial. Pas besoin de partir au bout du monde, l’aventure se trouve tout autour de nous!
      Groses bises!

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